Thay bơm hoặc chỉ thay ron tùy tình trạng bơm.
Các triệu chứng :
+ Rò dầu , nghe mủi khét có khói nhẹ bốc ở khoang máy.
+ Ngồi trong xe cũng nghe mùi khói do lòn vô khoang xe.
+ Hao dầu.
+ Tua máy giật giật ở garanty.
+ Liên quan đến phanh.
=========================
Do nhác chụp hình, nên mình copy/paste sẳn các DIY từ bmwfanatics của thành viên M318is - zn.
======================================
You now have fairly good access to the engine but the Vacuum Pump is still not visible. To access the Vacuum Pump remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine. Just lift up and pull, it comes away easily.
With the platic engine cover off you can now see the vacuum pump.
Its right up against the bulkhead of the car and the three 10mm retaining bolts can only be located by sliding your hand behind and feeling for them. Be under no doubt, there is about 40mm of space between the pump and the bulk head, its fiddly, frustrating and awkward.
Use a quarter drive with a 10mm socket to remove the three bolts.
The vacuum pump will then slide straight out. Just as it pulls out, take a photograph of the locator position, this is the part of the pump which connects to the cam driver insert inside the engine and has to go back in this exact position.
Remove the pump. I left the hose connected as the jubilee clip is not re-useable if removed. Where the hose connects to the brake servo inlet its a simple push click button to remove so I disconnected at that end instead.
With the pump out you can see where the oil was leaking, both from the O ring and also the pump seal itself.
Dismantle the pump by removing the five torx bolts at the rear. You can now remove the back. Its difficult to see from the photo but the seal is completely recessed which explains the leak. These seals are well known for compressing like this and the lack of pressure against the back plate results in leaks.
Clean the vacuum pump up with some degunk spray to remove all oil from the seal recess.
After speaking with a friend who is an ex Sytner mechanic he explained the only way you can fix these permenantly is by installing a more subtantial and appropriate seal and he found out quite by chance the perfect replacement is the seal which is supplied with a standard E90 engine oil filter! Its a fraction thicker than the origional and provides an absolutely perfect tight seal.
I then placed a small smear of gasket sealer in the seal recess. This is actualy more to hold the new seal in place whilst re-assembling as the seal has to be stretched a little to fit in and tends to spring out if theres no sealer to help keep it held down.
Once the new seal was installed....
...I placed a small amount of gasket sealer around the outer circumference of the seal.
This is not an essential step as the new seal is more tha sufficient but I just wanted to go the belt and braces route! I used the recomended heat resistant up to 230oc gasket sealer.
All done, clamp it back together with the torx bolts nice and tight, wipe any excess gasket sealer away, install the new O ring (Part no. 11667509080) and re-install.
Installation is every bit as awkward as removal, with the added complexity of lining the cam connector up. You can feel the position of the connector insert if you run your finger over it inside the rear of the cylinder head, theres no easy way unfortunately just keep rotating the pump connector a tiny amount each time until it finaly slides in.
Then replace the three bolts, again difficult to locate them and tighten due to lack of space to get your hands in.
Re-assemble the engine cover, strut braces etc in reverse order of removal.
==============================================
Hôm nào siêng mình dịch , anh nào tự động english thì đọc còn không cứ vất qua google translate.
Chốt lại : Anh em nào cần cái bơm đó để thay thì pm mình. Có sẳn hàng.
Còn cái ron lớn và 2 cái ron nhỏ đó khỏi cần ship hay vô hảng mua cho tốn tiền. Cứ xách mẩu ra tân thành thì 3 cái đó cở 50.000 vnđ thôi. Đảm bảo chịu dầu, chịu nhiệt và bền như o-ring zin.
Mua thêm 1 chai keo bôi ron ( keo này xài chung cho ron mặt máy hay ron đáy cạt-te máy hay cạtte hộp số ) Về bôi thêm sơ cho yênt âm. 1 ống nó là 48.000 vnđ.
Các triệu chứng :
+ Rò dầu , nghe mủi khét có khói nhẹ bốc ở khoang máy.
+ Ngồi trong xe cũng nghe mùi khói do lòn vô khoang xe.
+ Hao dầu.
+ Tua máy giật giật ở garanty.
+ Liên quan đến phanh.
=========================
Do nhác chụp hình, nên mình copy/paste sẳn các DIY từ bmwfanatics của thành viên M318is - zn.
======================================
You now have fairly good access to the engine but the Vacuum Pump is still not visible. To access the Vacuum Pump remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine. Just lift up and pull, it comes away easily.
With the platic engine cover off you can now see the vacuum pump.
Its right up against the bulkhead of the car and the three 10mm retaining bolts can only be located by sliding your hand behind and feeling for them. Be under no doubt, there is about 40mm of space between the pump and the bulk head, its fiddly, frustrating and awkward.
Use a quarter drive with a 10mm socket to remove the three bolts.
The vacuum pump will then slide straight out. Just as it pulls out, take a photograph of the locator position, this is the part of the pump which connects to the cam driver insert inside the engine and has to go back in this exact position.
Remove the pump. I left the hose connected as the jubilee clip is not re-useable if removed. Where the hose connects to the brake servo inlet its a simple push click button to remove so I disconnected at that end instead.
With the pump out you can see where the oil was leaking, both from the O ring and also the pump seal itself.
Dismantle the pump by removing the five torx bolts at the rear. You can now remove the back. Its difficult to see from the photo but the seal is completely recessed which explains the leak. These seals are well known for compressing like this and the lack of pressure against the back plate results in leaks.
Clean the vacuum pump up with some degunk spray to remove all oil from the seal recess.
After speaking with a friend who is an ex Sytner mechanic he explained the only way you can fix these permenantly is by installing a more subtantial and appropriate seal and he found out quite by chance the perfect replacement is the seal which is supplied with a standard E90 engine oil filter! Its a fraction thicker than the origional and provides an absolutely perfect tight seal.
I then placed a small smear of gasket sealer in the seal recess. This is actualy more to hold the new seal in place whilst re-assembling as the seal has to be stretched a little to fit in and tends to spring out if theres no sealer to help keep it held down.
Once the new seal was installed....
...I placed a small amount of gasket sealer around the outer circumference of the seal.
This is not an essential step as the new seal is more tha sufficient but I just wanted to go the belt and braces route! I used the recomended heat resistant up to 230oc gasket sealer.
All done, clamp it back together with the torx bolts nice and tight, wipe any excess gasket sealer away, install the new O ring (Part no. 11667509080) and re-install.
Installation is every bit as awkward as removal, with the added complexity of lining the cam connector up. You can feel the position of the connector insert if you run your finger over it inside the rear of the cylinder head, theres no easy way unfortunately just keep rotating the pump connector a tiny amount each time until it finaly slides in.
Then replace the three bolts, again difficult to locate them and tighten due to lack of space to get your hands in.
Re-assemble the engine cover, strut braces etc in reverse order of removal.
==============================================
Hôm nào siêng mình dịch , anh nào tự động english thì đọc còn không cứ vất qua google translate.
Chốt lại : Anh em nào cần cái bơm đó để thay thì pm mình. Có sẳn hàng.
Còn cái ron lớn và 2 cái ron nhỏ đó khỏi cần ship hay vô hảng mua cho tốn tiền. Cứ xách mẩu ra tân thành thì 3 cái đó cở 50.000 vnđ thôi. Đảm bảo chịu dầu, chịu nhiệt và bền như o-ring zin.
Mua thêm 1 chai keo bôi ron ( keo này xài chung cho ron mặt máy hay ron đáy cạt-te máy hay cạtte hộp số ) Về bôi thêm sơ cho yênt âm. 1 ống nó là 48.000 vnđ.
Chủ đề tương tự
