Cám ơn bác. Xe nhà em vẫn chạy tàm tạm. Danh mục nâng cấp đợt tới vẫn là cố gắng phục chế những gì thợ nhà ta vứt đi trong suốt 25 năm vừa chạy vừa sửa. Em đang chờ bộ van hằng nhiệt và mớ heo thắng mới từ Ucraina về. Giờ em đang nhờ bác Zero kiếm dùm em bộ lốp để chạy đi cày nữa thôi.lephuong nói:
Bình xăng con thì hình như bác xài bình zin mới cứng mà đúng không bác. Nếu vậy thì chắc chỉ do chỉnh chưa chuẩn thôi. Em chạy bình Toy nhái thấy cũng ổn vụ dễ khởi động lúc sáng sớm và không ngộp xăng lúc nóng máy. Nhược điểm của con này là họng phụ quá lớn nên nước hậu chả thấy đâu (cũng không quá quan trọng với kiểu chạy tà tà của em). Chắc về lâu về dài em sẽ vẫn làm một con Weber 32/36 DGV5A mới đập hộp cho nó máu.
Bác tungquan bán xe mà không báo trước cho anh em trong hội. Để thêm một em Niva nữa ra Bắc em lại thấy buồn.sjw nói:Xe này của bác thợ sơn trên PP phải không TungquanTungquan nói:Tungquan đã cai nghiện, báo cáo với các ae biết, nhưng vẫn còn thèm thèm.
Gửi Bác Mig xe E trc đây sử dụng bình zin cho nên không sử dụng máy lạnh tốt, em đã thay bình Weber 32/36 DGV5A rồi nhưng mà bình củ Anh ơi. Khi vào số thì nó cà dựt cà dựt khó chịu quá. Không biết nó bị lửa hay xăng, tức chịu không nổi
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Weber 32/36 không phải cứ cắm là chạy như zin đâu bác ơi. Bác phải sử dụng đúng các chi tiết phù hợp với động cơ của mình. Đây là tham số cho Niva bác nhé:
F50/F6 emulsion tubes
3.5/4.5 or (3.5) Diffusers
150/150 Mains
170/200
Air-correctors
50/80 Idles
45 or 50 pump jet
Bác nhìn hình này là biết cái nào ở đâu, tự chiến đi bác.
F50/F6 emulsion tubes
3.5/4.5 or (3.5) Diffusers
150/150 Mains
170/200
Air-correctors
50/80 Idles
45 or 50 pump jet
Bác nhìn hình này là biết cái nào ở đâu, tự chiến đi bác.
Tuning of Weber carburetors
All Weber carburetors have four circuits.
If the idle mixture jet is correctly sized, then the idle mixture screw should provide a stable idle when it is 2-3 turns from being fully closed (seated on the seat) at an ideal speed of 1000-1200 RPM. Be careful when you screw it fully in, on the seat, so as not to damage anything. If it takes more than 2-3 turns on the idle mixture screw to get the engine to idle, you need to change the idle jet to the next larger size. It probably has a 45 in it now. I would change it to 50, or perhaps even a 55. Then you can back off the idle speed screw and you will then have to reset the idle mixture screw and it should come back to 2-3 turns from fully closed. This should get rid of the stumble at 1500-2000 RPM.
High Speed Running – Once the engine is past 2500 RPM it should be running on the main circuit. The makeup of the main circuit metering consists of a Main Jet, Emulsion Tube, and Air Correction Jet. Fuel enters into the emulsion tube, through the Main Jet, from the bottom end; and air enters though the Air Correction Jet at the top of emulsion tube. After the fuel/air is mixed (emulsified), it passes through the holes in the side of the Emulsion Tube into the “well area” surrounding the emulsion tube. Fuel from here is supplies to the secondary venturi (choke) and the air rushing through the secondary venturi draws the emulsified air/fuel mixture into the airstream.
Accelerator Pump – Just as the cross-over ports helped with the transition from idle, the Accelerator Pump is there to provide a momentary increase in fuel when the throttle is suddenly opened. This shot of fuel keeps the engine from going lean under high load conditions.
Rules of Thumb
1) A one step increase/decrease for FUEL JETS is considered to be 5. So going from 120 to 125 would be a one step increase.
2) A one step increase/decrease for AIR CORRECTION JETS is considered to be 20. So going from a 180 to 200 would be one step increase.
3) An increase in fuel jet size will make the carburetor RICHER, whereas a increase in air correction jet size will make the carburetor LEANER.
4) A change in main fuel jet will affect fuel mixture over the entire RPM range.
5) A change in main air correction jet will have greater effect above 5000 RPM.
Here is one tuning example. We have a motor that is running rich at all RPM, but actually becomes somewhat leaner over 5000 RPM. In addition, it stumbles when coming off idle.
1) Increase idle jet one size. Re-adjust Idle screw and Idle speed so that the motor is running at around 1200 RPM on the idle circuit ONLY.
2) Decrease main jet size by one step of 5 (maybe a second reduction may be required).
3) Decrease air correction jet by ½ step. This would be 20. So we have added more fuel in the idle stage to help with low RPM stumble. Next we reduced the overall fuel supplied to the emulsion tube and this will lean out the carburetor over the entire RPM range. Finally we have REDUCED the size of the air correction jet by 20.
Finally, I would look at the effect of the Accelerator Pump Jet. If the engine REALLY goes rich whenever the accelerator pump is actuated, then you will have to inspect the “bleed valve” in the float bowl. If it does not have an orifice (which could be the case) then you may need one with a small orifice (say30) to allow some of the fuel surge created by the accelerator pump will be returned to the float bowl instead of going into the engine.
Just in case you do not have the right jets, get on the Internet and go to www.mcmaster.com or some equivalent company and order an assortment of miniature drill bits and a "Pin Vise". I would order drill bits from 1 to 2.5 millimeters in .05mm steps, or some 30 drill bits, and a .30, .45, .50, and a .55mm drill bit as well. You are now equipped to deal with any jet in any carburetor (except those that use needles, but that is another story). They should be between $1 and $2 dollars each. Make a little holder from a block of wood and lable each of the drill bit by its size.
All Weber jets are measured in metric increments. A 125 jet has a hole 1.25mm, and a 130 jet has a hole 1.30mm. As you can see, as a last resort you can make your own jets. If you need to go smaller, then a soldering iron and some regular, soft solder will close the hole, and then you can re-drill it for whatever size you need. The drill bits are also your "guage" as you can with the butt end measure any jet orifice to determine it’s size.
As far as high speed running is concerned a good rule of thumb is to start with 125 Mains and 175 Air Correction jets (a numerical spread of 50 is another one of those “rules of thumb”) if you have no idea where to start. I like F11 emulsion tubes for DCOE carburetors, but regardless of the type of carburetor, the emulsion tube is the LAST thing that you fine tune, and ONLY if absolutely necessary. The engine should at least run on this combination. Next I recommend that you use a Air/Fuel meter to monitor high speed fuel situation. The key number is 13:1. Yes, a stoichiometric mixture would be 14.7:1, and this is fine if you are tuning to pass a smog test, or for ultimate fuel economy, but it is much too lean for any competition motor. Of course if the Air/Fuel meter reads 10:1, then you are much too rich. Be careful, you need to test the entire RPM range, as it could be that slow running is OK but wide open throttle is too lean, or viseversa.
If you do not have an A/F meter (also known as a Lambda meter), then you have to use a bit of intuition.
If the engine misses at high RPM, then it is entirely likely that the main jet is too small, particularly if the exhaust pipe is very light in color (white to very light grey). The engine is leaning out at high RPM and if this situation persists, then you will do major damage. You can have the same miss if the engine is grossly too rich, except that the tailpipe will now be black and it will be spewing large amounts of black smoke (unburnt fuel), and will foul the spark. If you are standing behind such a car, it will not be long before your eyes begin to water.
Tuning Weber carburetors is as much an art as it is a science, as every now and then you will have an engine that needs something totally different, but this is VERY rare.
All Weber carburetors have four circuits.
- Idle
- Cross-over
- High Speed
- Accelerator
If the idle mixture jet is correctly sized, then the idle mixture screw should provide a stable idle when it is 2-3 turns from being fully closed (seated on the seat) at an ideal speed of 1000-1200 RPM. Be careful when you screw it fully in, on the seat, so as not to damage anything. If it takes more than 2-3 turns on the idle mixture screw to get the engine to idle, you need to change the idle jet to the next larger size. It probably has a 45 in it now. I would change it to 50, or perhaps even a 55. Then you can back off the idle speed screw and you will then have to reset the idle mixture screw and it should come back to 2-3 turns from fully closed. This should get rid of the stumble at 1500-2000 RPM.
High Speed Running – Once the engine is past 2500 RPM it should be running on the main circuit. The makeup of the main circuit metering consists of a Main Jet, Emulsion Tube, and Air Correction Jet. Fuel enters into the emulsion tube, through the Main Jet, from the bottom end; and air enters though the Air Correction Jet at the top of emulsion tube. After the fuel/air is mixed (emulsified), it passes through the holes in the side of the Emulsion Tube into the “well area” surrounding the emulsion tube. Fuel from here is supplies to the secondary venturi (choke) and the air rushing through the secondary venturi draws the emulsified air/fuel mixture into the airstream.
Accelerator Pump – Just as the cross-over ports helped with the transition from idle, the Accelerator Pump is there to provide a momentary increase in fuel when the throttle is suddenly opened. This shot of fuel keeps the engine from going lean under high load conditions.
Rules of Thumb
1) A one step increase/decrease for FUEL JETS is considered to be 5. So going from 120 to 125 would be a one step increase.
2) A one step increase/decrease for AIR CORRECTION JETS is considered to be 20. So going from a 180 to 200 would be one step increase.
3) An increase in fuel jet size will make the carburetor RICHER, whereas a increase in air correction jet size will make the carburetor LEANER.
4) A change in main fuel jet will affect fuel mixture over the entire RPM range.
5) A change in main air correction jet will have greater effect above 5000 RPM.
Here is one tuning example. We have a motor that is running rich at all RPM, but actually becomes somewhat leaner over 5000 RPM. In addition, it stumbles when coming off idle.
1) Increase idle jet one size. Re-adjust Idle screw and Idle speed so that the motor is running at around 1200 RPM on the idle circuit ONLY.
2) Decrease main jet size by one step of 5 (maybe a second reduction may be required).
3) Decrease air correction jet by ½ step. This would be 20. So we have added more fuel in the idle stage to help with low RPM stumble. Next we reduced the overall fuel supplied to the emulsion tube and this will lean out the carburetor over the entire RPM range. Finally we have REDUCED the size of the air correction jet by 20.
Finally, I would look at the effect of the Accelerator Pump Jet. If the engine REALLY goes rich whenever the accelerator pump is actuated, then you will have to inspect the “bleed valve” in the float bowl. If it does not have an orifice (which could be the case) then you may need one with a small orifice (say30) to allow some of the fuel surge created by the accelerator pump will be returned to the float bowl instead of going into the engine.
Just in case you do not have the right jets, get on the Internet and go to www.mcmaster.com or some equivalent company and order an assortment of miniature drill bits and a "Pin Vise". I would order drill bits from 1 to 2.5 millimeters in .05mm steps, or some 30 drill bits, and a .30, .45, .50, and a .55mm drill bit as well. You are now equipped to deal with any jet in any carburetor (except those that use needles, but that is another story). They should be between $1 and $2 dollars each. Make a little holder from a block of wood and lable each of the drill bit by its size.
All Weber jets are measured in metric increments. A 125 jet has a hole 1.25mm, and a 130 jet has a hole 1.30mm. As you can see, as a last resort you can make your own jets. If you need to go smaller, then a soldering iron and some regular, soft solder will close the hole, and then you can re-drill it for whatever size you need. The drill bits are also your "guage" as you can with the butt end measure any jet orifice to determine it’s size.
As far as high speed running is concerned a good rule of thumb is to start with 125 Mains and 175 Air Correction jets (a numerical spread of 50 is another one of those “rules of thumb”) if you have no idea where to start. I like F11 emulsion tubes for DCOE carburetors, but regardless of the type of carburetor, the emulsion tube is the LAST thing that you fine tune, and ONLY if absolutely necessary. The engine should at least run on this combination. Next I recommend that you use a Air/Fuel meter to monitor high speed fuel situation. The key number is 13:1. Yes, a stoichiometric mixture would be 14.7:1, and this is fine if you are tuning to pass a smog test, or for ultimate fuel economy, but it is much too lean for any competition motor. Of course if the Air/Fuel meter reads 10:1, then you are much too rich. Be careful, you need to test the entire RPM range, as it could be that slow running is OK but wide open throttle is too lean, or viseversa.
If you do not have an A/F meter (also known as a Lambda meter), then you have to use a bit of intuition.
If the engine misses at high RPM, then it is entirely likely that the main jet is too small, particularly if the exhaust pipe is very light in color (white to very light grey). The engine is leaning out at high RPM and if this situation persists, then you will do major damage. You can have the same miss if the engine is grossly too rich, except that the tailpipe will now be black and it will be spewing large amounts of black smoke (unburnt fuel), and will foul the spark. If you are standing behind such a car, it will not be long before your eyes begin to water.
Tuning Weber carburetors is as much an art as it is a science, as every now and then you will have an engine that needs something totally different, but this is VERY rare.
Mà bác lephuong cho em hỏi bác mua bình 32/36 cũ ở đâu, giá nhiêu vậy bác. Em cũng muốn mua một em về làm bé yêu khoa học chút.
Nếu bác chán bình zin mới thì để lại cho em đi bác. Có gì bác cho em cái số cầm tay liên hệ với.
Nếu bác chán bình zin mới thì để lại cho em đi bác. Có gì bác cho em cái số cầm tay liên hệ với.
Bác mig ơi, bình xăng zin của E thì Vy đang giữ đó bác liên hệ xem thế nào. Còn binh xăng xe e hình như là k phải 35/36 cũ vì hình như E bị nhầm rồi, nó rất giống 32/36, đề E ktra lại xem nó đúng k. nếu k đúng thì E mua luôn 1 bình mới luôn, cũng hơi bị đắt.
WEBER 32/36 DGV 5A CARBURETTOR NEW GENUINE FORD 2.0 OHC PINTO
|
Item condition:New
Quantity:
4 available / 2 sold
Price:GBP 179.00
Approximately 6,158,361.70 VND
Buy It Now
41 watchersAdd to watch list
Add to collection
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New
Condition
Shipping: Will ship to Vietnam. Read item description or contact seller for shipping options. | See details
Nhưng mà ưu điểm của nó so với bình zin nhứ thế nào vậy bác, E hơi bị lúa ở chổ này
WEBER 32/36 DGV 5A CARBURETTOR NEW GENUINE FORD 2.0 OHC PINTO
|
Item condition:New
Quantity:
4 available / 2 sold
Price:GBP 179.00
Approximately 6,158,361.70 VND
Buy It Now
41 watchersAdd to watch list
Add to collection
100% positive
Feedback
New
Condition
Shipping: Will ship to Vietnam. Read item description or contact seller for shipping options. | See details
Nhưng mà ưu điểm của nó so với bình zin nhứ thế nào vậy bác, E hơi bị lúa ở chổ này
Weber tên tuổi thế nào bác hỏi cụ Gúc dùm em một tiếng. Bình 32/36 là loại OEM replecment rất nổi tiếng của Weber với đặc tính thiết kế cực kỳ đơn giản và hiệu quả (không có các chi tiết "thừa" để đáp ứng có tiêu chuẩn khí thải) mà chỉ tập trung vào hiệu quả sử dụng nhiên liệu và công suất. Bình này vẫn còn đang được sản xuất mới nên không khó mua lắm. Giá thì cũng chỉ xêm xêm bình zin Niva mới mua tại Ucraina (thế nên em thấy mua luôn Weber cho khỏe). Chỉ cần lưu ý là hiện giờ hàng nhái nhiều vô kể, kể cả từ những thằng có sở hữ thương hiệu Weber. Ví dụ đơn giản là chú Weber Carb Direct, chú này mua thương hiệu Weber tại Bắc Mỹ nhưng lại thuê Trung Quốc sản xuất dùm và đóng mác Weber (cái này giống như xe Deawoo gắn logo Chevrolet ấy ạ). Hàng Weber "chính hiệu" chỉ sản xuất ở một nhà máy duy nhất ở Tây Ban Nha, nếu mua online thì bác phải chọn thằng nào qua distributor là Redline Weber.
Em đang ngắm nghía ở đây: http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=22680.005. Giá 199 Obama chưa ship. Em đang tính nhờ chú bạn nào ở Mỹ xách dùm thì đỡ tốn 70 Obama tiền ship.
Em đang ngắm nghía ở đây: http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=22680.005. Giá 199 Obama chưa ship. Em đang tính nhờ chú bạn nào ở Mỹ xách dùm thì đỡ tốn 70 Obama tiền ship.
Tự dưng thấy box ấm lên tý sau bao ngày lạnh tanh. Em mạnh dạn đề xuất anh em Niva tập hợp nhau lại cho một chuyến dã ngoại giao lưu chung nhỉ.
Thời gian đề xuất: ngày CN 29 tháng 12 2013
Địa điểm đề xuất: Hồ Cần Nôm, huyện Dầu Tiếng, tỉnh Bình Dương
Lịch trình đề xuất: sáng đi chiều về
Hoạt động đề xuất: câu cá, offroad nhẹ nhàng, chèo thuyền, ăn trưa gia đình, cắm trại,...
Hồ này rộng 240 ha, rất hoang sơ, cảnh đẹp và cho câu cá tự do. Rất lý tưởng cho hoạt động cắm trại.
Em mượn tạm ít ảnh của mấy bác hội câu cá
Thời gian đề xuất: ngày CN 29 tháng 12 2013
Địa điểm đề xuất: Hồ Cần Nôm, huyện Dầu Tiếng, tỉnh Bình Dương
Lịch trình đề xuất: sáng đi chiều về
Hoạt động đề xuất: câu cá, offroad nhẹ nhàng, chèo thuyền, ăn trưa gia đình, cắm trại,...
Hồ này rộng 240 ha, rất hoang sơ, cảnh đẹp và cho câu cá tự do. Rất lý tưởng cho hoạt động cắm trại.
Em mượn tạm ít ảnh của mấy bác hội câu cá
